▲ 2023年2月21-23日在莫斯科举办的“莫斯科首秀”展Moscow CPM(Collection Premiere Moscow)参观人数众多,甚至有的展位前排起了订货签单的长队,反映出俄罗斯冬装市场需求增长
自今年年初2023北京皮草“小交会”定档线下展展期以来,俄罗斯市场的变化和现状就一直为各地展商重点关注。毕竟在“小交会”悠久的历史上,俄罗斯买家一直是重点和亮点,中国厂家也期待在经历疫情2年的沉寂期后,能迎来俄罗斯市场买家的回归。
为获得当下俄罗斯皮草和冬装市场最准确的一手信息,“小交会”组委会特意通过邮件的方式采访了俄罗斯本土皮草时尚杂志《Fashion Fur and Leather》的首席记者Alexander Makukha亚历山大先生。亚历山大曾多次参观北京“小交会”并与我们长期保持联络,他也曾多次参观全球的各地的皮草专业展会,遍访米兰、香港、土耳其和佟二堡等主要皮草原料及服装产区,因此对全球皮草市场有精准的比较和分析,以下为本次“小交会”对亚历山大的采访翻译(后附英文原文)——▲ Alexander Makukha/亚历山大,俄罗斯皮草时尚杂志《Fashion Fur and Leather》首席记者小交会:我们看到日前在莫斯科举办的“莫斯科首秀”展Moscow CPM(Collection Premiere Moscow)参观人数众多,甚至有的展位前排起了订货签单的长队,这是否意味着俄罗斯冬季服装和皮草皮衣市场的复苏?
亚历山大:今年我们杂志《Fashion Fur and Leather》在CPM上有展位,我全程观察了展会现场情况,展会前两天真的有太多观众了。
小交会:CPM是专业订货会吗?还是订货与现场零售相结合的展会?因为看现场观众数量太多了。
亚历山大:CPM是B2B的专业订货会,现场并不设零售。涵盖时装和皮草、皮衣各个领域。日前的展览是2024年秋冬系列产品。我也是第一次在这个展会上见到如此之多的观众。

▲ 亚历山大参观2023 CPM展并对参展商进行走访
小交会:是否可以简单介绍下近期俄罗斯裘皮服装市场情况?相比疫情之前,目前市场需求是否有提升?
亚历山大:俄罗斯皮草市场目前没有恢复到最好的状态,但是整体情况在逐渐好转中。
小交会:年轻的俄罗斯消费者是否如上一代消费者,依然热衷于皮草?还是他们对冬装的选择更多样化?例如羽绒服、毛呢大衣、派克服?
亚历山大:俄罗斯年轻一代对冬季服装的选择更为多样化,这也是皮草服装市场还不能快速恢复的重要原因之一。
小交会:目前皮草服装市场上比较受欢迎的是什么毛皮品种?
亚历山大:紫貂和其他奢华品种的皮草服装更受欢迎。几天前圣彼得堡的拍卖会刚刚结束,达到了95%的销售量,价格约上涨了30%。
小交会:你对中亚五国的毛皮服装市场是否有了解?我们目前可以看到中亚市场有需求增长,是否有部分俄罗斯人从中亚市场购买毛皮服装?
亚历山大:就我所知,哈萨克斯坦皮草服装的市场行情比较好。我有计划在几个月后去哈萨克斯坦进行考察,以便更好地了解当地的市场走向。
综合以上“小交会”对亚历山大的专访,希望有助于各位面向俄罗斯市场的参展商更好地准备展品,“小交会”还将持续关注全球各重点皮草市场,并与展商们分享一线信息。如您对哪些市场还有什么样的问题,也欢迎在留言区留言,我们将尝试联系当地的业内人士,尽可能为您做出解答。
以下为小交会采访亚历山大的英文原文,供参考——
BIFE: We saw on your wechat post that u were in the Moscow fair. I could see there were so many visitors, were the visitors all placing orders there or the fair was also retail fair to consumers?Alex: This this fair was too much people most of all first two days.This fair is B2B and is about all fashion market. I think it’s the first time when I saw too much people in this fair.BIFE: Could you introduce the recent Russian fur market situation to Chinese manufactories? For Chinese manufactories, Russian market is so important, during last two years, cause of COVID, we could not update the market news from Russia. Comparing with 2019 (before the outbreaking), is the market demand increasing?Alex: Russian fur market now is not so good, but I think situation is slowly coming better.BIFE: Does young generation of Russian still fond of fur garments same as their parent generation? Or they tend to take various winter garment choices, such as down jacket, parka, winter outwear?Alex: Young generation have more interests for other garment. It’s one of the main problem.BIFE: What sort of fur species is most popular in Russian market now? Mink, fox, sable,Raccoon, or?Alex: Sable and our other Luxury Furs is feeling better than other. Few days before was finished auction in Saint Petersburg with 95% results of sale. Price going up around 30%.BIFE: Do you know the fur market of Five Central Asian States, especially Kazakhstan? We heard about the market demand is increasing in past 3 years, do you know maybe some Russian buy fur garments from these countries?Alex: As I know Kazakhstan market is good market in fur direction. Maybe I will go after a few months there and will receive more information for understanding situation there.

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